What do I study for the written?

The written and the lab are different goals and have different study materials. The key to the written is know the blueprint material down to a very fine detail level. For the written exam for routing and switching you can:

Read Books (there is a recommended book list)
Read Online reference (also linked from Cisco's R&S page)
Read a study guide or take classes.

One of the best online references is CCO documentation:

http://www.cisco.com/univercd/home/home.htm

The CCIE R&S page:
http://www.cisco.com/web/learning/le3/ccie/rs/index.html

The books:

http://www.cisco.com/web/learning/le3/ccie/rs/book_list.html

The online resources:

http://www.cisco.com/web/learning/le3/ccie/rs/online_resources.html

The recommended classes are cisco classes and boil down to:

The CCNP track which consists of ICND or CCNA, a routing exam BSCI 642-901, ONT 642-825, a switching exam BCMSN 642-812, and a WAN/Remote access exam ISCW 642-845) plus part of the CCIP track: QoS and MPLS and two IPv6 classes. So a good certification path that has a natural progression to follow is CCNA, CCNP, CCIP then CCIE written.

I'm not sure if any of the recommended classes really prepare you for the lab.